Trevor Routman, the new director of culinary operations and executive chef at Los Milics Vineyards in Elgin, defines himself as an “eater and diner before a cook.”
From his family’s Illinois kitchen, popular TV cooking shows, Chicago’s vibrant culinary scene and the tutelage of James Beard-nominated chefs, Routman has pulled together a style marrying personal food preferences with seasonal and simple. It’s pinned together, of course, by culinary know-how—he’s a graduate of the Arizona Culinary Institute in Scottsdale.
“I want to make food that makes people happy,” he said of his seasonal/ local style. “I hope people like what comes out of my brain.”
What comes out of that brain are Tasting Room options like a seasonal salad featuring greens, wheatberry, cherry tomato, artichoke, ricotta salata and crispy chickpeas ($19). Also, a croque monsieur sandwich, an amalgam of ham, gruyere, bechamel and Dijon bound together by Barrio Bread focaccia ($19).
In the evening the Tasting Room transforms into The Biscuit Dining Room, named for the dramatic eastern-facing vista of one of the area’s most iconic features. Then you can savor—as you can earlier in the day—a small plate of burrata with arugula, cherry tomatoes, basil, laced with a balsamic reduction ($19). For a main course, perhaps grilled Moroccan chicken breast complemented by ras el hanout (Mediterranean spice mix), harissa olive relish, mashed sweet potatoes and arugula ($29). Dessert? Let’s splurge—a classic panna cotta with a red wine reduction ($12).
“Just being at the vineyard, tasting wine, is plenty of inspiration for pairing,” Routman said. “As a guest, there are no rules to drink with food—just eat and drink what you like.”
The Los Milics menu and vineyard reflects the upscale experience that winemaker and co-owner Pavle Milic wants guests to have. Combine that with Routman’s penchant for blue-collar food and you get a collision/collaboration of sophistication with laid back familiarity.
Routman was recommended to Milic by a business partner in Scottsdale.
“And once I started talking with him, “Milic said, “it was clear: he’s hyper-focused, passionate, and just an all-around cool dude. We are very fortunate to have him in our tent!”
Whether in Elgin or in Los Milics’s second tasting room in Scottsdale, dining options are the same. There’s no “dumbing down” offerings for rural Arizona—a nod of respect for diners’ palates. But what will change come September is extended hours, seven days a week. And Sunday through Wednesday dishes will be more family-oriented.
“I think the best food is working-class food, [places] where salt-of-the-earth people eat,” Routman said. Those eateries come in many forms— be they neighborhood sit-downs, delis or street carts. Ferreting out such food is something of a hobby of Routman’s, first in Chicago and now in Phoenix. In addition to being just plain fun, those meal memories serve as inspiration for his own culinary configurations.
“I don’t think most dishes need 20 ingredients,” Routman said. It’s not his goal to “confuse and confound.” Rather, do more with less. And—whenever possible—buy locally.
“I’m still working on sourcing,” Routman said. One connection made early was with Vera Earl, a grass-raised, grain-finished beef operation in Sonoita. Los Milics’s tasting menu includes meat from that operation—a beef burger (gruyere, Dijonnaise, griddle onions, pickled jalapenos and cucumbers, frittes, $22). At dinner you can get a Vera Earl flank steak (potato pavé, grilled asparagus, chimichurri, aioli, $45). Both dishes are proof that Routman is serious about the local food connection. Not only is it good for the local economy, it’s also one way to guarantee freshness.
Other regional foods utilized at Los Milics include mushrooms, grains and flours from BKW Farm in Marana and breads from Barrio Bread in Tucson.
“I want to get a garden in here so we can grow our own herbs, not onions or potatoes, but at least we can grow some tomatoes in the summer and radishes,” he said. At Lula Café in Chicago, Routman’s former haunt and place of employment, there were planter boxes and a rooftop garden. Guests were delighted not only by the visual “but also the flavor when you’re cutting herbs that morning or that afternoon before dinner.” Yep—it makes a difference.
Roasted Red Pepper and Olive Relish
This recipe courtesy of Trevor Routman, Executive Chef and Director of Culinary Operations, Los Milics.
12 red peppers, roasted, skinned, seeded, small diced
1 ½ cup black olives, rough chopped
1 bunch parsley, stems removed and leaves chopped
1 bunch mint, stems removed and leaves chopped
1 lemon, juiced
1 large clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon Chicken Spice*
Salt to taste
Combine all ingredients. Serve on meat, chicken or fish.
*Chicken Spice
1 cup coriander seeds
½ cup ground cumin
1 tablespoon black pepper
2 tablespoons ground ginger
2 tablespoons ground sumac
6 tablespoons pimentón de la vera*
¼ cup dried thyme
½ teaspoon ground cloves
Combine all ingredients and store in airtight container for use as a rub on chicken. *Pimentón de la Vera is a Spanish smoked paprika. It can be purchased on Amazon.
Los Milics Vineyards, 423 Upper Elgin Road, Elgin. Hours: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Wednesdays through Sundays, closed Mondays through Tuesdays. Website: losmilicsvineyards.com. Phone: (520) 221-0180. Reservations accepted.