County Fair Kitchen Crew, circa 1960-1. Photo courtesy of Patagonia Museum
Time erases people. But not necessarily deeds.
Such is the case with Fay M. Hill, a Cowbelle who, as president of the Santa Cruz County chapter in 1950, wrangled up local contributions to the organization’s state-wide cookbook project. Printed in 1951, “Roundup Recipes” celebrates Arizona’s ranching heritage with hearty dishes ready to be served “ranch style.”
Ranch style?
“That might be defined as: in quantity, within easy reach and without schedule,” wrote cookbook authors Bonnie and Ed Peplow.
That Hill did her job making sure Santa Cruz County was well represented in the publication is without question. A notice to all state Cowbelles bears witness of that fact, the memo found in The Patagonia Museum.
“Where are those recipes you were going to send,” the notice scolds. “Today we received 45 … from cattle women in Santa Cruz County. Fay Hill, President of the Santa Cruz County Cowbelles, sent them. Santa Cruz is our littlest county. That should be a challenge to the rest of Arizona cattle women.”
Eventually 26 recipes from local ranches would make their way into print. Fay Hill contributed two – neither one beef. Hill’s Barbecue Chicken can be found in the entrées’ chapter along with a second barbecue sauce marked “hot.”
As to Hill herself, there are vague recollections of her time here amongst current Cowbelles. This, no doubt, is a reflection of the years that have passed—51—since her death.
We do know Fay was originally from Indiana and had a sister, Mae, who visited from Denver. And in 1942, Fay enlisted as a WAC “aviation cadet” in that Colorado city, serving one year.
Spouse Samuel T. Hill, 17 years Fay’s senior and a native of South Carolina, made his fortune in Hawaii after serving as a master electrician for the Pearl Harbor Navy Yard. Following military service, he would become president of the Hawaii Brewing Company and director of several other corporations.
Upon retirement in 1939, Samuel and Fay moved to Elgin and operated the SX Bar Ranch. What prompted them to settle here is anyone’s guess. But somewhere between Fay’s stint as Cowbelles’ president and 1961, the couple relocated to Tucson. Samuel died in that year and Fay in 1973. The two are buried in Canelo’s Black Oak Cemetery.
Fay M. Hill’s Barbecue Chicken
Cut two young frying chickens (2 ½ to 3 lbs. each) in half and baste with olive oil. Salt and pepper thoroughly. Place over glowing charcoals, skin side up. Baste with barbecue sauce each time before turning. Make sauce as below. It usually takes the chickens about 1 hour and 15 minutes to cook. Makes about 4 servings.
Barbecue Sauce
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon peanut butter
1 tablespoon celery seed
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 ½ cups vinegar
2 lemons
Put butter in top of double boiler and melt. Work peanut butter and seasoning into butter. Add vinegar slowly.
Bring almost to a boil. When thoroughly mixed, remove from fire and allow to cool. When quite cool, add juice of 2 lemons. Use for basting barbecued chickens.
—Mrs. Fay M. Hill, SX Bar Ranch, Elgin
A copy of “Roundup Recipes” can be viewed at the Bowman-Stradling History Center located at the Santa Cruz County Fairgrounds, 3142 S. Highway 83, Sonoita. Handouts of recipes printed in the PRT are free.
The center is open Mondays through Fridays, 9am-3pm. For access, please visit the fairgrounds’ office.
For more information on the center contact SonoitaHistoryCenter@gmail.com.
Alison Bunting contributed to this story.
Carrie White can be contacted at CarrieWhitePRT@gmail.com.