Eggnog was one of Helen R. Kolbe’s superpowers.
The wife of Walter W. Kolbe, Helen was widely heralded for the seasonal drink and the family’s annual Christmas Eve soiree. Fondly known as the “eggnog party,” the celebration was held at the Rail X Ranch, which the Kolbes owned from 1947 to 1966. And more than a tradition, it was a “must do” annual event.
But the Kolbe kids had another name for December 24—“Slave Day.”
That’s because Wally, John, future Congressman Jim, and Beth were expected to make and position luminarias on the 11,398-square foot Pueblo-style home. Oh yeah, and light them.
In the meantime, Helen would be separating eggs in the kitchen, preparing gargantuan batches of eggnog. Three-gallon containers were used to hold the seasonal drink, Beth remembered.
Come sundown, the magic began. Families, friends and visitors to Casa Rosada, the Kolbe guest ranch property, gathered; youth downstairs, grown-ups upstairs. Below quarters, eggnog sans brandy. Up top, full octane.
“Every person in the area came, almost,” Beth said. “The joke was, ‘What are you doing this Christmas Eve?’ ‘Well, we’re going to the Kolbe party,’ even though they didn’t know if they (her parents) were going to have it. But they always did.”
Grace (Townsend) Wystrach remembers those parties fondly. “It was a fun time of year.”
The eggnog party was one of several annual events at which area ranch kids gathered. There were youth from the Canelo Hills Ranch, Crown C, Lazy RR, LJ Ranch, Pyeatt Ranch and the Rain Tree, to name a few. Many of the families had come here around the same time, after World War II.
As is true today, the holidays were a time to toast good fortune and celebrate friendships with the most ancient of gestures—the breaking of bread.
“The (Kolbe) Christmas Party was a favorite event for us kids,” wrote Dr. Richard ‘Dick’ Schorr in response to an inquiry. “I’m not sure if all four [boys] attended plus Mom and Dad.” But on reflection he thinks getting a small squadron of young mavericks dressed for a formal occasion was probably quite a feat. “I remember my itchy pants, mostly.”
Arriving at the Rail X ablaze with luminarias was an impressive sight, he said. “Lots of cars and excitement.” Looking through the plate-glass window and seeing neighbors in their Sunday best only served to heighten anticipation.
“We hustled down the old Spanish stairway to be greeted by Wally, John and Jimmy,” Schorr wrote. “We all brought records.”
In due course, appropriate eggnogs were dispensed, as were snacks and food. Beth recalled ham, turkey and canapes. All but the bird came from the Rail X.
Produce for the party came from a ranch garden, nurtured by Monkey Springs. “My father had a wonderful green thumb, so he had a huge garden,” Beth said. While Beth tended the garden, it was Helen who spent much of the summer canning and freezing the harvest. “That’s what fed the family and the guest ranch in the winter,” Beth said. And supplemented the eggnog party.
Which isn’t to say that Helen didn’t buy canned foods. Her recipe for Mock Chicken, printed in the 1951 Cowbelles’ Cookbook Roundup Recipes, is reflective of that, as it utilizes canned mushrooms and soup.
From a historical standpoint, Mock Chicken reflects what was going on in many American kitchens at the time. Housewives were looking for shortcuts, according to the National Women’s History Museum. And canned goods offered that.
Plus, Helen Kolbe liked to experiment, as you can see from the combination of flavors below. “We were her taste testers,” Beth said. “She would try it on the family first and then take it to the guest ranch.”
Mock Chicken
1 can tuna
1 can mushrooms
3-ounce package potato chips
Make a white sauce from:
4 tablespoons flour
4 tablespoons butter
2 1/2 cups milk
To white sauce, add tuna, mushrooms and crushed potato chips. Put in casserole, sprinkle with more potato chips and bake in moderate oven (about 350 F.) until hot through and potato chips are brown on top.
One can condensed mushroom soup with 1/2 can milk can be substituted for the white sauce and mushrooms in above recipes. It’s a good shortcut. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
A copy of “Roundup Recipes” can be found at the Bowman-Straddling History Center. The history center is located at the Santa Cruz County Fairgrounds, 3142 S. Highway 83, Sonoita, and is open Mondays through Fridays 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. For access, please visit the fairgrounds’ office. For more information on the center, contact SonoitaHistoryCenter@gmail.com