Celebrating Cinco de Mayo With the Lewis Family

Gone are the days when tacos, tostadas and enchiladas were considered ethnic foods.

Now these dishes are part of our collective culinary vernacular—like pizza, chow mein, gyros—a tribute to the melting pot we call home.

But in the 1950s, when the Cowbelles’ “Roundup Recipes” was printed, Mexican food had its own chapter, just behind the section on game. (Not deer or elk. Rather squirrel, raccoon and porcupine.)

Mexican food, as described by authors Bonnie and Ed Peplow, should not be confused with Spanish cuisine, although at the time they often were. 

“Mexican cooking is as different from Spanish as is, shall we say, New England cooking from English,” the Peplows wrote.

Being so close to the border, though, Cowbelle Laura Lewis of the Lewis Ranch learned to whip up a batch of chili meat in under 30 minutes. And while it may not have been exactly how the dish was prepared in Mexico, the Peplows gave this, and other chapter offerings, a pass, describing them as “versions of Mexican cooking adapted to the tastes, pantries, and experience of working ranchers and ranch wives.” 

But chili meat wasn’t the only Mexican food served at the Lewis table. 

“There were lots of beans with everything,” said grandson Jimmy Lewis of the Double Staple Ranch outside Patagonia. Eggs, bacon, toast, and beans for breakfast. PBJ with a side of beans for lunch. And meat, potatoes and beans for dinner. 

“She was very well known for her beans,” said Wanda De La Ossa, daughter of Blain and Laura Lewis. “We would buy pinto beans in big bags.” Once cooked, Laura would mash them with some Lewis Ranch cheese. 

“I don’t cook as much as my mom,” De La Ossa said. However, she admitted to having just completed a pan of enchiladas. “My Mom was an indoor person. I’m more an outdoor person.” Still, De La Ossa makes her own tortillas and her mom’s beans. She uses measuring spoons, something her mother didn’t have. Then, it was pinch of this and a pinch of that. 

And meat. Most times it was beef and came in the form of hamburger or steak. From all accounts, Laura had a real talent with the latter. “She could cook a steak in a pan better than those made on a grill,” Lewis said. Occasionally, though, there were pork chops procured locally. Lamb came from the Sharp ranch in the San Rafael Valley.

By today’s standards, variety wasn’t in abundance in the shadow of the Patagonia Mountains. But what the Lewises enjoyed was delicious and healthy—eggs from ranch chickens and milk from the ranch cows, Laura making her own cheese. 

“She did have a sweet tooth,” Lewis recalled. Two of her favorite cookies—pecan sandies and wafers—were the rare store purchases. As was the ice cream: black walnut and butter pecan. For birthdays, though, the frozen dessert was made in-house, as there were lots of kids to turn the crank. 

“I remember Aunt Opal came from Texas and stayed with us for a little while. They went on an ice cream diet. That’s all they would eat,” Lewis said.

Now to fruits and vegetables. Area apples and apricots were enjoyed along with Lewis-grown peaches. String beans, tomatoes, squash and lettuce could be found in granddad Blain’s garden, a source of pride. “We ate the lettuce with just a little bit of salt,” grandson Jimmy remembered. 

And, as Lewis recalls, Grandma was generous with what they had, feeding anyone needing sustenance—before talking you into a card game.

Chili Meat

½ lb. ground pork

½ lb. ground beef (1 lb. beef may be used instead of half pork)

1 green chili pepper, chopped

1 can hot chili sauce

1 medium-sized onion, chopped

Salt and pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons flour

2 tablespoons shortening

2 cups water

Brown meat in shortening. Add flour and let brown. Add green chili, onion and chili sauce. Salt, pepper and water should be added next. Let cook slowly for about 20 minutes. 

—Laura Lewis, Patagonia

A copy of Roundup Recipes can be viewed at the Bowman-Stradling History Center located at the Santa Cruz County Fairgrounds, 3142 S. Highway 83, Sonoita. Handouts of recipes printed in the PRT are free. The center is open Mondays through Fridays 9a.m. to 3p.m. For access, please visit the fairgrounds’ office. For more information on the center contact SonoitaHIstoryCenter@gmail.com.

Carrie White can be contacted at CarrieWhitePRT@gmail.com.